Furniture Archives - Poppytalk

DIY Dowel Clad Entertainment Unit Downunder

Jan Halvarson — Thu, 11 Nov 2021 06:57:00 +0000

Loved this DIY Dowel Clad Entertainment Unit project by Nyome Blanchard and her husband that I spotted on Instagram over the weekend so much, I asked her if we could share here on the blog.

Measuring in at just under five meters (approx. 16.5 feet) wide, they were determined to find a way to have a custom wall to wall built-in within their budget in their new home in Fern Bay, NSW (Australia).

Using 5 x 900 mm laundry top cabinet flat packs from a local hardware store, the couple wanted the project to be taller than a standard tv unit to give more visual weight in such a long space. They also needed it to be quite narrow so it didn’t impede on the usable space in the lounge room.

They clad the doors in half dowels and added a beautiful stone top. The result is stunning! Follow @lanchesbaybuild on Instagram as they continue working on their gorgeous home. In the meantime, check out the before/after progress!

Check out more on their new home journal Instagram account, @blanchesbaybuild.

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DIY Art Deco Dresser

Jan Halvarson — Wed, 29 Mar 2017 18:45:00 +0000

We’re excited today to share a DIY project from Christine Schmidt of Yellow Owl Workshop‘s newest book, Make It Yours, Patterns and inspiration to stamp, stencil and customize your stuff. Once again, Christine makes all our DIY dreams come true with a stunning collection of projects that are inspiring and fresh. From creating the most adorable stamped clay ornaments to turning an old dresser into an eye-catching art deco showpiece, Christine shows readers how to create gorgeous projects using unexpected materials. To launch the book which is on sale today we’re sharing the art deco dresser project which is one of our favourites from the book. Check it out below!

Art Deco Dresser

During art school I paid bills by working as a mural painter and faux finisher. It was the late 1990s and faux marbling and sponge painting could not be stopped. I especially loved metal leafing with gold, copper, and silver. Using a simple Ikea dresser, this project showcases both the traditional method of leafing and a new method I developed to get crisp leaf motifs every time.
Art Deco, an art and design movement that started in France after the Second World War, played with geometric shapes, symmetry, and gold, baby, gold. The motif can be scaled or multiplied to fit any dresser, wall, or even a jewelry box. Gold and metal leaf works on many surfaces, even glass and melamine. Always remember to seal your surface before you begin so the adhesive sizing takes—and to seal it after to protect your work. I like to use large foam brushes to apply sealer and adhesive because these products will ruin your expensive brushes, and the larger brush size facilitates the application process.

MATERIALS

Damp cloth
Dresser
Rag
2 foam brushes, each 2″ (5cm)
Gold leaf kit with 25 sheets of leaf, adhesive sizing, brush, and sealer
Additional gold leaf sheets
Templates A, B, and C (click here and here to download)
Clear contact paper
Craft knife
Cutting mat, cardboard, or chipboard, 20″ × 18″ (51cm × 45.5 cm) or larger
Masking tape
Tracing paper, 81⁄2″ × 11″ (21.5cm × 28cm)
Fine point permanent marker
Scissors (optional)
Flat brush, 1⁄2″ (13mm)
Mod Podge, Gloss Finish, 16 oz (473mL)

TIME: 4 hours

LEARN: How to apply gold leafing to surfaces using two techniques
REMIX: Use these techniques to decorate any wood, glass, or paper item; create a large canvas stamp with this motif

Instructions, Part 1 (Traditional Method)
We will use this method to cover the entire dresser top. It is best to do this project indoors, where nothing will fall or blow onto the surface as you work.

1. Wipe the dresser clean with a damp rag. Any dust will prevent the adhesive from working properly.

2. Use a foam brush to apply the adhesive sizing in a thin, even coat to the top surface of the dresser. Allow it to dry for at least 20 minutes, up to one hour, or until sizing is clear and tacky. This time will vary depending on your climate. If you start too soon, the gold leaf will tear and move with the wet sizing.

3. Wash and dry your hands immediately before applying leaf because oil, sweat, or residue will make the leaf stick to your hands rather than your work surface. Open to a fresh sheet of gold leaf in the booklet. Place gold leaf facedown on the adhesive surface. Press gently and remove booklet, leaving only the gold leaf. Smooth with a small bristle brush.

4. Repeat step 3 until surface is covered in gold leaf.

5. Place small bits of leaf over any gaps and smooth them with the bristle brush. Use a gentle stippling motion to get into any grooves and then a wiping motion to slough off the extra leaf.

6. Use the second foam brush to apply at least two coats of protective sealer, allowing time to dry between coats.

Instructions, Part 2 (Cheater’s Method)
We will use this method to create the stenciled decoration on the face of the dresser.

1. Remove adhesive backing from a sheet of contact paper and lay it faceup on a table. Press gold leaf sheets onto contact paper. Once you have covered the surface with gold leaf, paint on at least two layers of sealer with a foam brush and set to dry overnight.

2. Place gold-leafed contact paper, plastic side up, on a cutting mat about 20″ × 18″ (51cm × 45.5cm).

3. Trace templates A, B, and C on tracing paper (template C is a mirror image of template B—see pages 148–49) and attach the three templates with tape onto the gold-leafed contact paper. Using a craft knife, cut out the three shapes. You may want to use scissors to cut out the circles.

4. Lay the dresser on the ground with the drawers facing up. Position the gold-leaf decoupage motif in the center of the top drawer with contact paper side down. Align the straight edge of the motif with the top edge of the top drawer. Apply small pieces of tape to secure the main large motif and the circles in position.

5. Lift up portions of the gold-leaf decoupage motif and coat the back with Mod Podge, removing tape as needed. Lay motif back down and smooth with your hands. Wipe up excess Mod Podge with a rag.

6. Using a craft knife, cut a centered line between the top and middle drawers. Fold over edges and adhere with Mod Podge.

7. Brush Mod Podge on decorated surfaces to seal the leafing.

Make It Yours, Patterns and inspiration to stamp, stencil and customize your stuff (Clarkson Potter; on sale March 28, 2017; $22). Click here to find out more.

Follow Christine Schmidt + Yellow Owl Workshop:
Site/Shop – yellowowlworkshop.com
Instagram – @yellowowlworkshop

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DIY Triangle Display Shelf

Jan Halvarson — Wed, 29 Mar 2017 07:29:00 +0000

Earlier last month we happened upon this triangle display shelf via Instagram from Moorea Seal in Seattle and were inspired that it was handmade. Ashley Miller(who works there) created it as a display shelf for the shop and so we asked these two ladies if they would be interested in sharing how it was made as a DIY for Poppytalk. And we were thrilled they agreed!

The result is a stunning shelf perfect for not only retail, but at home too. Also, be sure to check out both Moorea Seal online and Ashley’s Etsy shop, Charcoal and Ash. All equally impressive – more of their contact info below!

DIY Triangle Display Shelf

The inspiration for the Triangle Display Shelf was to create shelving that was useful and stylish that could also create height in the shallow shop widow spaces. The triangle shelf does a great job at creatively displaying store product without blocking light from the outdoors. The
removable bolts keep it safely attached they are a great feature allowing for repositioning and stacking. Once your triangle shelf is built you can customize it by painting, sanding, staining, or burning the surface for a variety of beautiful looks.

Shopping List:
• 9, 1”x 6”x 72” pine boards (1 board per triangle I recommend buying a few extra)
• 54 (6 per triangle) 1-5/8” wood screws
• 1/4” flat washers
• 1/4” -20 hex nuts
• 1/4” -20 x 2 carriage bolts
Instructions:
1. First cut at the end a 33 1/3 degree angle
2. Then turn the board over, slide it down to 21”
3. On the long side cut 33 1/3 degree angle again
4. Repeat until board is cut into 3 pieces, cut all boards
5. Fit pieces together (see image below)

6. Screw in 2 wood screws per corner, until all 9 triangles are assembled (see image below)

7. Stack bottom row 3 triangles right side up, 2 upside down (see image below).

8. Drill holes with 1/4” drill bit dead center through the triangles to connect them.
a. Not on the outside wall or on the bottom only where the triangles connect, to
hold them in place so they do not fall over when stacked.
9. Install 1/4” bolts, nuts, and washers.

10. Stack 2 triangles right side up and 1 upside down in center, on top of the bottom 5 triangles (see image below).

11. Repeat step 8. (But do drill through the bottom connecting triangles)
12. Stack final triangle on top, drill hole in the bottom and bolt

DIY by Ashley Miller
Etsy Shop: https://www.etsy.com/shop/CharcoalandAsh
Instagram: @charcoalandashpnw
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/charcoalandash/

for

Moorea Seal

Founder: Moorea Seal

Where: 2523 3rd Ave, Seattle, WA

Open 7 days a week

mooreaseal.com

Instagram: @mooreaseal
Pinterest @mooreaseal
Twitter: @mooreaseal

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Faux Terrazzo Table Top IKEA Hack DIY

Jan Halvarson — Wed, 01 Feb 2017 23:07:00 +0000

A simple guide to creating a faux terrazzo table top effect.

This weekend I did a little makeover on our plain white LINNMON table that was looking a little worse for wear. With a few stains and scratches, it was time to either replace it or make it last a little longer with a cover up of some kind. Since we’re really loving the terrazzo look lately, I had the idea to cut out little pieces of marble and black contact paper to look like little broken up pieces of stone. A faux terrazzo table top effect. This is a fun little IKEA hack to add to our series.

Faux Terrazzo Table Top

The hardest thing about this faux terrazzo table top project is that it is a bit time consuming, in fact I still have a bit to finish on ours. I love the result though, so the time invested I find worth it.

You will need:
A table top – we used the LINNMON table

Other supplies: 1 roll of marble-patterned contact paper
1 roll of black contact paper
scissors

To make:
This project is super easy – hardly no explanation needed really. Just simply cut random shapes in the shape of rocks either with rounded corners or sharp edges and peel the backing off and place each one as you go, building a natural looking pattern. And what’s nice, because it’s contact paper, you can remove it easily if you make a mistake. Continue until you have the entire table top finished. Depending on the size of the surface you are covering, this project can take an afternoon or a couple of days.

A perfect rainy day project.

You could finish this off more permanently by coating it with a sealing agent if you wished. I have left it as is, and it’s been fairly durable so far as it’s not a table that is used all that often.

A fun little project perfect for a rainy afternoon. Enjoy!

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DIY Speckle-Painted Lampshade

Jan Halvarson — Tue, 13 Sep 2016 00:49:00 +0000

Today we’re excited to share a project from Rebecca Atwoods new beautiful new book, Living With Pattern: Color, Texture and Print at Home from Potter.

The book is all about how to tell your story with pattern, going through each room of a home from various artists/designers who Rebecca admires, but who also know how to make a home that is reflective of the home owners story. A section filled with gorgeous homes including tips and tricks on creating personal, patterned spaces.

The end of the book features several DIY projects from decoupage to embroidered placemats. Fresh updated projects on classic ideas such as marbling, weaving and shibori. Like this speckle-painted lampshade we asked to share here. Check out the how-to below!

DIY Speckle-Painted Lampshade

Customizing a lampshade is an easy way to add pattern to your bedside table. This small accent may be just what you need if you have limited space. Here an organic pattern is painted on the shade to give it new life. If you’re unsure about painting your own design, you can always go for a stripe. The pattern possibilities are endless, so sketch out a few ideas prior to starting.

Supplies
Lampshade
Water-based paint, such as gouache or acrylic
Brushes for painting and/or stenciling
Stencils (optional)
Lamp base
Apron or old clothes

STEP 1: Paint
Just dive in. Have fun and paint freely, or stencil the design of your choosing. Here I used blue and black gouache. Gouache gives a softer look than acrylic because it has a matte finish. I recommend using only a little bit of water. Simply wet your brush prior to dipping it in the paint. If your paint feels too thick, just add a little more water until you get a consistency you like. First I put down larger spots of a soft blue, followed by a second layer of smaller black spots.

STEP 2: Finish
Let the paint dry completely before fitting the shade on your lamp base. Light up your room!

Living With Pattern: Color Texture and Print at Home by Rebecca Atwood is available on Amazon. Click HERE for the link.

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Before and After: Mid-Century Modern Cabinet

Jan Halvarson — Fri, 23 May 2014 07:00:00 +0000

Guest post by Nicole Phillips of visualheart.com

My latest find was a mid-century modern cabinet which originally came from a local art gallery, it was in rough shape with really dry wood veneer and a broken door. Not only was the door broken, but I later discovered that the entire unit was warped (including the door). Andrew ended up sanding off a small section of the door so it could close smoothly, he also had to clamp it to a flat surface to correct the warp as much as possible. Off topic – how cute is that tiny lock above the handle!

The entire cabinet was primed with several coats of white, it was crazy how much the old wood veneer soaked up the paint like a sponge. 3 coats later, the surface was finally ready for me to apply the final coat. I used Benjamin Moore Advance series. This paint is perfect for furniture, it’s high-gloss and self levelling, allowing for a very smooth finish when applied with a mini roller. For this project I used Snowfall White and Tropicana Cabana.

I liked one of my previous makeovers so much I decided to go with that style and paint the interior blue, it’s a nice way to add colour without being too obnoxious.
The legs were in decent enough condition so I opted to leave them wood if they ended up having similar wood tones as the door once the old stain was removed. The door was an issue, I removed the handle, but sadly a big chunk of the wood veneer came off with it, because it was screwed on as well as glued with some kind of super glue! At this point I thought for sure there was no way we could salvage the wood door. There was a big hole that needed to be filled and obviously it wasn’t going to match the original veneer, so I thought we had to paint it, there was no other option. Andrew thought we could sand it down and put a wide handle over it to try and hide it, but after trying that, we knew it would still be visible, plus it would also look like we were trying to hide it.

We both really wanted to salvage the wood grain, so I searched around for some ideas…and couldn’t find anything I loved and that would work for this situation. After some experimenting I decided to go with a leather door pull. I grabbed an old leather belt from the local thrift store and some brass screws from Home Depot and figured it out from there. It was fairly simple to make and I think it turned out pretty good! The best part, it sits flat against the door and hides all the imperfections from the old handle!

Click here for more detailed steps and supplies needed to make your own leather furniture pulls.

Once the door was coated with tung oil and the drawer pull was attached, it all came together. We kept the legs wood even though they were lighter, it picks up the lighter tones in the grain on the door and it’s a nice contrast to all the white.

Nicole Phillips is a Vancouver based Graphic Designer and blogger.
You can learn more about her at visualheart.com or follow her creative side:
twitter.com/visualheart
pinterest.com/visualheart
instagram.com/visualheart

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DIY: Faux Marble Table Top

Jan Halvarson — Sun, 07 Apr 2013 09:04:00 +0000

This weekend I did a little makeover (IKEA hack really) on our old DOCKSTA table that was looking a little dingy. We’ve had that table for over five years I think (maybe 7) and the top was showing it, definitely in stains, scuffs and dings. So I know this is more of a temporary solution as I don’t know how long this will last, but whatever it is, it’s a big improvement over what we had. Check out my before and after:

It’s hard to see the stains in the picture (but trust me they’re there), and yes I switched out the kitchen chairs with the dining ones (they just seemed to want to be together after this – and we don’t have a dining table anyway yet). We hope to build a nook type banquette eventually here with maybe even a real tulip table one day (dream).

My how-to? I used faux marble contact paper! I know (pretty temporary) but I might purchase a glass top to cover it, or when it does start to peel (er, um melt), I’ll just lay some new stuff! (I was inspired by Catherine Therrien’s project in April’s Style at Home where she used washi tape). Laying it was super tricky and measuring it was worse, as anyone who has one of these tables knows, it’s super heavy; so to flip over to trace out a nice circle was not going to happen. But basically I just placed the paper (design face down) and then traced with a pencil the circle that way. And then applied! The paper I picked up (Grip-Tac) was pretty bubble proof so really no bubbles to be had, but the ones that did appear I popped with a pin. And that was it. My faux marble table top! (Psssst! I kind of want to marbelize everything now).

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